Washing your face

Rocket science? Maybe not. But as a dermatologist, I have a few reasons for walking you through a little face-washing tutorial. First, I often begin my instructions for applying medications in later chapters with phrases like “Wash your skin . . .” or “To a clean, dry face, apply . . .” so, it seemed to make sense that I fill you in on the details.

The second reason for this bit of Face Washing 101 is even simpler — many people screw it up. But don’t worry: I’m here to help. And, if you’re like many folks, my face-washing routine can simplify your mornings and evenings and save you some cash.

These days, society as a whole is really into soap — the cleaner the better! As little kids, we’re told to scrub, scrub, scrub with plenty of soap and water. As teenagers, we use more soap — to fight acne and oily skin. As adults, we tend to follow the same routines even though our skin has changed.

And the range of different types of soaps available is mind boggling — super-fatted, deodorant, rejuvenating, oatmeal, avocado, citrus, aloe vera, sandalwood, wintergreen, peppermint, patchouli, and vitamin E to name a few.

Many types of cleansers are also available. Some exfoliate as they clean, and the medicated ones generally contain benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid in various concentrations. Overcleansing with these products can be irritating.

More often than not, these items will only dry out and irritate your skin, particularly if you’re already applying a topical anti-acne medication (see Chapters 7 and 9).

Washing excessively — more than twice a day — with any soap (regular soaps, acne soaps, antibacterial soaps, soaps with abrasives, or even gentle soaps) has little positive impact on your acne.

In fact, if you have acne, your skin may be red and inflamed, and frequent washing only makes it redder. Washing your face with a mild soap just twice a day is the best tactic, regardless of your skin type or acne activity.

I recommend the following soaps and cleansers, depending on your skin type. These triedand- true recommendations may not sound as exciting as a Provencal honey-lavender soap with grape seeds, but they flat out work:

Oily skin: Ivory soap
Dry skin: Dove soap
Extra-sensitive skin or allergic reaction to soaps: Nonsoap cleanser such as Cetaphil, Aquanil, or Neutrogena Extra Gentle Cleanser

At the risk of sounding like a parent — with the whole “wash behind your ears” thing — now that you have your soap, here’s how to use it:

1. Get the soap wet, using lukewarm water.
2. Using your fingertips or a soft washcloth, apply the soap to your skin and rub it gently into your skin using a circular motion. Don’t use loofah sponges, brushes, or sandpaper please.
3. Splash your face with lukewarm water until the soap is completely gone. Expect to rinse your face for just a few seconds — perhaps as long as it would take to sing “Happy Birthday.”
4. Pat — don’t rub — your skin until it’s dry. Use a soft cotton towel.

And that’s it!